FIGURES
1. The Byzantine House of Melnik . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
2. The South-western Section of the Castle of Sérres (the Tower of Orestes) . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
3. The Western Section of the Castle of Sérres . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
4. The Figure of Alexander the Great on a Fragment of a Vase from Thessalonica . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
5. The Assension of Alexander the Great . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
6. Digenis Akritas fighting a Lion . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
7. Gynaikókastro, Kilkís . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
8. Tower of Áyios Vasíleios . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
9. Tower of Galátista . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
10. Castle of Ohrid . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
11. Bailey of the Castle at Sérvia . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
12. Basilica of the Citadel of Sérvia . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
13. Yürüks from the Region north of the Lake of Langadá . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
14. The Religious Turkish Edifices in Yenitsa . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
15. The Monument of G. Vibius Quartus . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
16. Dervishes . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
17. Janissary . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
19. The Central Tower (donjon) of the Castle of Platamón . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
20. Tower at Ouranoúpolis . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
21. Manuel II Palaeologus . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
22. Symeon, Archbishop of Thessalonica . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
23. Remains of a Byzantine Wall in the Village of Chortiátis . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
24. Thessalonica. Tower on the Harbour Walls . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
25. Thessalonica. Tower on the Harbour Walls . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
26. Part of the Eastern Walls of Thessalonica and the Trigonion (on the right) . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
27. The Acheiropoietos at Thessalonica . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
28. The Turkish Inscription in the Acheiropoietos at Thessalonica . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
29. The Monastery of Vlataeon in Turkish Times . . . . . . . . . . . 96
30. Cistern of the Church of the Holy Apostles at Thessalonica . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
31. The Letaean Gate . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
32. Sipahis . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
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33. The Citadel of Thessalonica . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
34. Site of an Ancient Christian Basilica in Front of the Prison of Heptapyrgion, Thessalonica . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
35. Α Turkish Bath at Thessalonica . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
36. Map of Macedonia (XIII Cent.) [[ large picture ]] . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
37. The Tower of Lady Maro in the Village of Dáphni, near Nigríta . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
38. The Monastery of Eikosiphoenissa . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
39. Saint Dionysius of Olympus . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
40. Saint Modestus and Saint Nikanor . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
41. The Monastery of Zavorda (the Catholicon) . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
42. The Patriarch Gennadius . . . . . . . . . . . . 131
43. Monastery of St. John the Baptist at Sérres . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
44. The Monument of Lukas Spantounes . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
45. The Church of Jesus our Savour in Thessalonica . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
46. Arch of Galerius . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
47, 48, 49. Old Houses in Thessalonica with Typical Buzantine Architectural Features . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
50. Kavála in the 19th Century . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
51. Madém Lákkos . . . . . . . . . . . . 154
52. Sarakatsan Woman from Arnaía . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
53. Sarakatsan Women from the Region of Xánthi and Komotiní . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
54. The Ancient Theatre of Thasos . . . . . . . . . . . . 163
55. The Monastery of Docheiariou from a Sketch of Barskij . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
56. The Monastery of St. Panteleïmon . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
57. The Monastery of Simonos Petra . . . . . . . . . . . . 170
58. The Monastery of Kastamonitou from a Sketch of Barskij . . . . . . . . . . . . 171
59. Entrance to the Monastery of Vatopedi . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
60. Detail from the Dormition of the Virgin. Work of the Macedonian School (early 14th Century) . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
61. Detail from the Last Supper in the Refectory of Lavra, Showing the Apostles Seated on the Left of Christ. An Example of the Cretan School . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
62. An Orthodox Monk of the 15th Century . . . . . . . . . . . . 184
63. Costume of a Woman from Macedonia . . . . . . . . . . . . 191
64. Sérres. Koca Mustafa Camisi . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
65. Sérres. Hagia Sophia Camisi . . . . . . . . . . . . 194
66. Α Klepht . . . . . . . . . . . . 205
67. Church of Saint Nicholas on the Castle of Sérres . . . . . . . . . . . . 213
68. Melnik . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
69. Skopje . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
70. Štip . . . . . . . . . . . . 221
71. Ohrid. View from the Lake, Looking towards the Old City and the Citadel . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
72. The Archiepiscopal Church of Peć . . . . . . . . . . . . 226
73. Part of Kavála in the 19th Century. Below Left can be discerned the Via Egnatia leading to Philippi . . . . . . . . . . . . 228
74. Ruins of Ancient Philippi . . . . . . . . . . . . 230
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75. Inn at Pravista . . . . . . . . . . . . 232
76. Source of the River Anghista (Anghitis), which Flows into the Lake of Kerkinitis (Achinou) . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
77. The Hermitage of Kavsokalyvia . . . . . . . . . . . . 238
78. The Lake of Besikya (Volvi) with the Town of the Same Name . . . . . . . . . . . . 243
79. The Catholikon of the Byzantine Monastery of Peristerá . . . . . . . . . . . . 244
80. Church of Our Lady of Chalkeon at Thessalonica in Turkish Times . . . . . . . . . . . . 246
81. The Mosque of St. George (the Rotonda) . . . . . . . . . . . . 247
82. Interior of the Church of St. Demetrius in Turkish Times (it was then a Mosque) . . . . . . . . . . . . 248
83. Mosque of Aladja Djamisi . . . . . . . . . . . . 248
84. The Mosque of the Hamja Bey . . . . . . . . . . . . 249
85. Interior of the Mosque of Hamja Bey . . . . . . . . . . . . 249
86. Interior of a Tekke at Thessalonica . . . . . . . . . . . . 249
87. Byzantine Baths. Thessalonica in the Upper City . . . . . . . . . . . . 250
88. Turkish baths. Thessalonica . . . . . . . . . . . . 250
89. Turkish fountain in Thessalonica (in the Upper City) . . . . . . . . . . . . 251
90. The Covered Marked Bezesten at Thessalonica . . . . . . . . . . . . 251
91. Old Inn at Thessalonica in Monasteriou Str. (Exterior View) . . . . . . . . . . . . 255
92. Byzantine Inn (Caravanseray) at Thessalonica . . . . . . . . . . . . 253
93. Plan of the Byzantine Inn at Thessalonica . . . . . . . . . . . . 253
94. The White Tower during Turkish Times . . . . . . . . . . . . 254
95. Α Corner of Édessa . . . . . . . . . . . . 261
96. The Catholikon of the Monastery of the Holy Anargyri (Eastern Aspect) at Kastoriá . . . . . . . . . . . . 265
97. Ruins of an Old Inn below the Castle of Platamón . . . . . . . . . . . . 267
98. The Ancient Agora of Thasos . . . . . . . . . . . . 271
99. Α Narrow Street in Old Thessalonika . . . . . . . . . . . . 294
100. The Sea-side of Thessalonika at the Beginning of the 20th Century . . . . . . . . . . . . 301
101. Las Incantadas . . . . . . . . . . . . 311
102. Church of the Apostles . . . . . . . . . . . . 312
103. The Church of the Prophet Elias (Eski Seraï) . . . . . . . . . . . . 313
104. The Church of Michaelmas (Ikişerefe Cami) . . . . . . . . . . . . 314
105. South-eastern Side of the Church of Michaelmas . . . . . . . . . . . . 315
106. Church of Ypapanti . . . . . . . . . . . . 316
107. The Harbour of Thasos with the Ancient Port in the Foreground . . . . . . . . . . . . 325
108. Embroidered Apron from Panayiá. Thasos . . . . . . . . . . . . 326
109. Ali Pasha of Yannina . . . . . . . . . . . . 355
110. Kosmas Balanos . . . . . . . . . . . . 360
111. Athanasios of Paros . . . . . . . . . . . . 361
112. Ruins of the Athonias Academy . . . . . . . . . . . . 363
113. Evgenios Voulgaris . . . . . . . . . . . . 364
114. Kosmas of Aetolia. Fresco of 1888 from the Church of Prophet Elias at Kozáni . . . . . . . . . . . . 372
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115. Kosmas of Aetolia. Fresco of 1829 from the Church of the Dormition of the Virgin at Samarina. . . . . . . . . . . . 376
116. John Kottounios . . . . . . . . . . . . 382
117. Demetrius Demetriou . . . . . . . . . . . . 394
118. Greek Church at Miscolc . . . . . . . . . . . . 400
119. Façade of the Church of the Greek Community at Braşov . . . . . . . . . . . . 400
120. Gilt Alter-screen of the Greek Church at Braşov . . . . . . . . . . . . 400
121. The Greek School at Braşov . . . . . . . . . . . . 401
122. The Greek Church at Vać . . . . . . . . . . . . 401
123. Greek Church at Szentendre . . . . . . . . . . . . 402
124. Interior Façade of a Greek Church at Comarno . . . . . . . . . . . . 403
125. Greek Church in Budapest . . . . . . . . . . . . 405
126. Cover of a Greek Book Published in Buda (1818) . . . . . . . . . . . . 409
127. The Greek Church in Vienna . . . . . . . . . . . . 412
128. Cover of the "Ephemeris" of the Markides Poulios Brothers (1793) . . . . . . . . . . . . 415
129. The First Page of the Newspaper «Ειδήσεις δια τὰ Ἀνατολικὰ μέρη» (1811) . . . . . . . . . . . . 417
130. George Ι. Karayannis (1743-1813) . . . . . . . . . . . . 420
131. Theodore Karayannis (1810-1873) . . . . . . . . . . . . 420
132. Sinas' Bridge at Budapest . . . . . . . . . . . . 421
133. Melnik. The Cathedral District and the Monastery of St. Nicholas . . . . . . . . . . . . 429
134. Embroidered Cuff from Western Macedonia . . . . . . . . . . . . 432
135. Woman's Dress from Nymphaeon, near Flórina . . . . . . . . . . . . 433
136. Siátista . . . . . . . . . . . . 434
137. Room in Mansion of Kozáni with Carved Wooden Walls and Ceiling . . . . . . . . . . . . 437
138. Poem Written by Pupils of the School of Kozáni . . . . . . . . . . . . 440
139. Men from Blátsi . . . . . . . . . . . . 443
140. Kastoriá . . . . . . . . . . . . 445
141. Woman's Dress from Kastoriá . . . . . . . . . . . . 450
142. Sanctuary Screen from the Church of Phaneromeni, Kastoriá . . . . . . . . . . . . 453
143. Mansion of Emmanuel at Kastoriá . . . . . . . . . . . . 454
144. Mansion of Papapetros at Kastoriá . . . . . . . . . . . . 455
145. Mansion at Kastoriá . . . . . . . . . . . . 458
146. Ornamented Window of Mansion at Siátista . . . . . . . . . . . . 459
147. George Theocharis . . . . . . . . . . . . 465
148. Inscription on the Lintel of the Church of St. Demetrius, Litóchoro (Chapel of St. Dionysius) . . . . . . . . . . . . 469
149. Albanians . . . . . . . . . . . . 474
150. Jew and Armenian . . . . . . . . . . . . 475
151. Monastir. General View . . . . . . . . . . . . 480
152. Monastery of Bukovo (Monastir) . . . . . . . . . . . . 481
153. Megarovo . . . . . . . . . . . . 483
154. Kruševo. View of the West Side of the Town with Kiosk . . . . . . . . . . . . 487
155. Wall-Painting in the Mansion of D. Keratzis: "Hadrian's Gate at Athens" . . . . . . . . . . . . 491
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156. Wall-painting on the Mansion of D. Keratzis: "Columns of the Temple of Olympian Zeus at Athens" . . . . . . . . . . . . 491
157. "Aristotle". Oil-painting in the Mansion of N. Tsirlis at Neveska (Nymphaéon) . . . . . . . . . . . . 491
158. Amazon. Oil-painting in the Mansion of N. Tsirlis at Neveska (Nymphaéon) . . . . . . . . . . . . 492
159. Monastery of the Merciful Virgin near Strumica . . . . . . . . . . . . 493
160. Melnik . . . . . . . . . . . . 495
161. Grevená . . . . . . . . . . . . 498
162. Kozáni . . . . . . . . . . . . 501
163. Yeni Cami at Édessa . . . . . . . . . . . . 504
164. Old Houses of Véroia on the Side of the Ravine . . . . . . . . . . . . 507
165. Outer Door of the Mansion of Vikelas (Kanakis) at Véroia . . . . . . . . . . . . 508
166. Zincirli Cami at Sérres . . . . . . . . . . . . 517
167. Church of Saints Theodori at Sérres. South-west Side . . . . . . . . . . . . 520
168. The Covered Market (Bezesten) at Sérres . . . . . . . . . . . . 521
169. Dráma in Turkish times . . . . . . . . . . . . 524
170. Kavála . . . . . . . . . . . . 525
171. Excavations at Ancient Pella . . . . . . . . . . . . 527
172. Ruins of Ancient Pella . . . . . . . . . . . . 528
173. Greek Gouple of Peasants from Kampania (Rumlúki) . . . . . . . . . . . . 530
174. Greek Woman from Kampania . . . . . . . . . . . . 531
175. Woman's Dress from Neochóri (Asvestochóri) . . . . . . . . . . . . 533
176. St. Sophia at Thessalonica . . . . . . . . . . . . 536
177. Church of St. Catherine at Thessalonica (Yakub Paşa Camisi) . . . . . . . . . . . . 537
178. Jews of Thessalonica . . . . . . . . . . . . 539
179. Street in Arnaía . . . . . . . . . . . . 546
180. The Tower of Maden Ağa in Stágeira . . . . . . . . . . . . 554
181. Farm-house Belonging to the Monastery of Ayiou Pavlou, with Byzantine Tower. Cassandra, on the West of the Toronaios Gulf, where the Refugee Settlement of Néa Phókaia lies Today . . . . . . . . . . . . 556
182. Representation of the Kalamatianós Dance, on a Fresco of 1739, in the Monastery of Gregoriou on Mount Athos . . . . . . . . . . . . 560
183. The House of Georgakis at Livadi on Olympus, before it Was Burnt down by the Germans . . . . . . . . . . . . 563
184. Greek Pirates . . . . . . . . . . . . 568
185. The Valley of Tempe in an Old Gravure . . . . . . . . . . . . 579
186. Mehmed Ali Pasha . . . . . . . . . . . . 581
187. Statue of Mehmed Ali Pasha at Kavála . . . . . . . . . . . . 582
188. John N. Papafis . . . . . . . . . . . . 586
189. Benjamin, Bishop of Sérvia and Kozáni . . . . . . . . . . . . 588
190. Emmanuel Papas' Statue in Sérres . . . . . . . . . . . . 591
191. Photograph of Constantine Papas, the Younger Son of Emmanuel Papas . . . . . . . . . . . . 592
192. Monastery of Esphigménou on Mount Athos . . . . . . . . . . . . 594
193. Main Church of the Monastery of Esphigménou . . . . . . . . . . . . 595
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194. Dervishes . . . . . . . . . . . . 598
195. Interior of the Church of St. Athanasius, in Thessalonica, at the End of the 19th Century . . . . . . . . . . . . 599
196. Thessalonica. The Fountain with the Upper City behind . . . . . . . . . . . . 600
197. The Ruined House of Hadji Giorgis, President of Thasos and Leader of the Insurrection on the Island in 1821 . . . . . . . . . . . . 601
198. Road in the Village of Theológos . . . . . . . . . . . . 602
199. Archimandrite Callinicus Stamatiades . . . . . . . . . . . . 603
200. Monastery of Vatopédi on Mount Athos . . . . . . . . . . . . 605
201. Monastery of Xenophontos on Mount Athos . . . . . . . . . . . . 606
202. The Channel, formerly the Isthmus of Cassandra, where the Greeks Resisted the Forces of Mehmed Emin Pasha of Thessalonica . . . . . . . . . . . . 613
203. Nicholas Kasomoulis of Kozáni (1795-1871), who Took a Prominent Part in the Revolution of 1821 . . . . . . . . . . . . 616
204. Tomb-stone of Emmanuel Papas in the Church of Hypapanti on Hydra . . . . . . . . . . . . 620
205. Monastery of Stavronikita on Mount Athos . . . . . . . . . . . . 621
206. Balconies of the Monastery of Simonos Petra . . . . . . . . . . . . 622
207. The Tower of a Monastery on Mount Athos . . . . . . . . . . . . 623
208. Monastery of Vatopediou . . . . . . . . . . . . 624
209. Old House in Véroia . . . . . . . . . . . . 629
210. The House of G. Lassanis at Kozáni . . . . . . . . . . . . 632
211. The Castle of Platamón. South-east aspect . . . . . . . . . . . . 633
212. Snow Capped Olympus . . . . . . . . . . . . 635
213. Old Houses in Naousa . . . . . . . . . . . . 639
214. Α Rare Painting of Thessalonica Viewed from the Sea . . . . . . . . . . . . 644
215. Uniform of a Kavas of the European Consulates, around the End of the 19th Century . . . . . . . . . . . . 646
216. Young Woman from the Village of Theológos on Thasos, in Local Costume . . . . . . . . . . . . 660
217. Old House in Drama . . . . . . . . . . . . 664
218. Macedonian House at Dranovo (Monastiraki) near Dráma . . . . . . . . . . . . 665
219. Turkish House in a Macedonian Village . . . . . . . . . . . . 666
220. Domestic Utensils from a Macedonian House . . . . . . . . . . . . 667
221. Α Road in Monastir during the Last Century . . . . . . . . . . . . 670
222. Α Young Lady from Pylaea (Kapoutzides) with a Typical Bridal Dress ("Sayás Tlikoustós") . . . . . . . . . . . . 679
223. Carving from 1837 in the South Wall of the Church of St. George at Chortiátis. On Each Side of the Cross are represented Tiny Men holding Greek Flags . . . . . . . . . . . . 680
224. Wooden Clapper from a Monastery of Mt. Athos . . . . . . . . . . . . 681
225. Lamp-lighter . . . . . . . . . . . . 682
226. Itinerant Refreshment-seller . . . . . . . . . . . . 683
227. Old House in Thessalonica . . . . . . . . . . . . 684
228. Old House in Thessalonica . . . . . . . . . . . . 685
229. The Beginning of the Monastir Road in Thessalonica, with Horse-drawn Tram . . . . . . . . . . . . 686
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230. Hamidye Avenue (present-day Vasilissis Sophias St.) with Houses in the Neo-classical style . . . . . . . . . . . . 687
231. Façade of the Greek Girls, School of Bitola (Monastir). Sketch by L. Kaftantzoglou (1881) . . . . . . . . . . . . 688
UNNUMBERED ILLUSTRATIONS
Byzantine Decoration . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
The French Traveller Belon . . . . . . . . . . . . 189
Byzantine Decoration . . . . . . . . . . . . 328
Α Door of an Old Post-byzantine House in Thessalonica . . . . . . . . . . . . 425
Α Window of the Monastery of Xeropotamou . . . . . . . . . . . . 561
Decoration from the "Newspaper" of 1792 . . . . . . . . . . . . 626
Α Gunpowder-case of the Greek Revolution of 1821 . . . . . . . . . . . . 652